Pets And Animals

Behavioral Problems In Cats

2009-03-23T01:39:00.000-07:00

Cats are ill tempered and mean at their worst, but even the most annoying problems have a remedy somewhere. Below are six of the most common behavioral problems in cats and some solutions for them.

1. Scratching Your Furnishings and Carpet. Cats actually need to sharpen their claws, just like rodents need to gnaw. Their claws never stop growing, and what they're actually doing when they sharpen their claws is removing the outer layer of the claw. Some people will simply declaw a cat that is having this problem. I do not advocate this. Even the most indoor of cats may wind up outside by accident or design one day, and if you remove your cat's claws, you're taking away his or her primary form of defense.

Before declawing, try getting a scratching post. If your cat loves someone more than anyone else in the family, hang a dirty sock belonging to that person on the scratching post to make it smell familiar (you can take it off after about a day). You can also sprinkle catnip over it or – this is weird but it works – powdered chicken bouillon. The idea is to get the cat to feel friendly enough to the scratching post to attack it.

Meanwhile, make your cat's favorite scratching areas less attractive. Sprinkle fresh lemon juice over them, wrap them or cover them with aluminum foil (fingernails on the chalkboard, anyone?), and clean them well to eradicate any cat odor. If you can, close doors to make those places inaccessible to the cat.

2. Eliminating Outside The Litter Box. The first thing to ask is, is it your fault or the cat's fault? Many cats won't use a litter box that is too dirty. They just don't like it. If you think this may be the problem, change out the litter about twice as often as you currently do. You can also be prompt about cleaning any places the cat goes, spraying these areas down well with Lysol or a similar disinfectant with a nice strong smell. You can also try putting the litter box in a more attractive place to the cat; the bathroom, for instance. If it's not in too obnoxious a place, you can put the litter box on top of the place your cat has chosen to go, too, just to make the point. As last resorts, put down bleach, safely, in those spots, and cover the area with aluminum foil.

3. Scratching people. Cats generally do this because they're afraid; again, is it the fault of the cat or of the people around him? If you have a cat that is generically afraid of children, though, you should do something about it; try acclimatization, or exposing the cat to young children until he's calmer about it. Don't let the child loose around the cat. Either have the child sit down in your lap or next to you, feeding Kitty treats.

Not all cats are afraid; some are just plain mean to certain people. The only thing you can do about this is remove the cat from the situation; when the cat starts clawing or growling, pick her up and take her to the bathroom until your guest is gone; and it's usually a guest that this happens to, often one who owns pets of his or her own.. If it's a family member, try cat repellant or lemon juice to keep the cat away, then acclimatization to get them used to the other person. If all this fails, you may be forced to have the cat declawed.

4. Caterwauling (whining). Siamese cats do this by nature, and you may not be able to get them to stop. But other cats do it because they are hungry, tired, or sick, or to let you know she has done something good. There aren't many things you can do about this, unfortunately. If you think it's a hunger thing, feed her more promptly, and refuse to feed her when she caterwauls; she won't understand what you're doing, but she'll almost certainly quit after she figures out it does her no good. If she caterwauls because she is in heat, you should get her fixed. For other caterwauling problems, try to ignore her, and keep her as far away from yourself as possible.

5. Spraying. Male cats do this to mark territory, and they usually do it when they feel threatened: when dogs or small children threaten, or when other male cats are around. There is little you can do about this beyond having your cat neutered. Don't punish for it; the cat will not understand at all.

6. Running Outside. Cats get very curious about the outside. The first thing you should do is not open the door when the cat can run out. But you can also try to get the cat accustomed to the outdoors by getting a cat leash and walking her on it, or by carrying her in your arms when you go outside. Once she knows what's out there, she's less likely to want to get to it, particularly if you expose her to snow and wet conditions.

Cat Article courtesy of I-Love-Cats.com

What To Feed Your Cat

2008-07-04T02:54:00.000-07:00

Well what can I say about feeding your cat. If your cat will eat it then generally let them eat it but there are some foods that you should keep away from your cat, chocolate being one of them but more of that later.

What does my cat like, well most things especially if I have spent my money on it for him. He’s like that. I mainly feed him on a famous brand cat food, which provides him with a balanced diet, and he tends to concentrate on his favorite flavors which are fish or chicken based. He has his favorites and as such I don’t tend to waste my time buying stuff he doesn’t like.

He also likes me to cook, as he knows there will be lots of spare food. He likes prawns and other shellfish which have been shelled, chicken and virtually any meat, raw or cooked although I refuse to give him raw meat. He doesn’t like vegetarian, which is not that surprising for an animal which is basically a hunter.

What you need to remember is that your cat will let you know what he likes so that’s what you should feed to your cat. There are exceptions though and one of those is chocolate. It may be OK for you, but is it OK for your cat. It is not any good for me as it just tends to move from my mouth to my waistline, but then again that is like most foods I eat.

So what about chocolate and cats? Well chocolate speeds up the heart beat of a cat; it acts as a diuretic and as you well know it is loaded with calories. Don’t make your cat a heavy weight, as that’s bad for them as well.

My cat, Tigger, loved chocolate but I found out early on it was bad for him so I used to buy him a special chocolate developed for cats. It was sold by a major cat food manufacturer so I assumed it was safe and I have since found out that these companies which sell cat chocolate either produce a vegetable based substitute which looks and tastes like chocolate or they take out a substance in the chocolate called theobromine, which is what causes the problems for cats. Just be careful when you are buying chocolate for your cat. Make sure it is safe as apparently the treatment for chocolate poisoning in cats is not nice for the cat and the owner.

Apart from that give then what they like but don’t give them too much. I always bought Tigger a special Christmas Stocking full of cat treats. The first time I ever got him one I wrapped it up and placed it under the Christmas tree. When he came into the room he sniffed a little, went under the tree and rummaged round all the presents till he found his present. There wasn’t any waiting for Christmas, he ripped it open and ate everything he found. As for the squeaky mouse and the flea collar, well if I hadn’t moved them they would still be there today. He was too much a real cat to play with a squeaky mouse. He liked the little plastic balls with the bells in though and played for hours chasing those. I suppose that burned a lot of the calories off that he had gained eating the treats.

Just be careful, but in general feed you cat the food it likes. It will soon let you know what it doesn’t like and what it does, just like a child will.

Elderly Cat Care

2008-07-03T09:30:00.000-07:00

Our cats become a part of the family over time. But unlike humans, who are considered elderly at 60 or 65, cats are considered "senior citizens" at the ripe old age of 10. It is important to understand the proper care of cats at all stages of life. A kitten cannot be fed, groomed, medicated, and treated the same way as an elderly cat. Here is a guide to proper Elderly Cat Care.

Feeding Time

Most pet supply stores sell specially formulated cat foods that are designed to provide proper health and nutrition to elderly cats. Some formulas assist with proper digestion, since this can often be a problem with older cats. Senior cats cannot assimilate their food in their digestive tracts in the same way that they did when they were youngsters.

Older cats can also have problems with their teeth that cause them to eat less. This is why it is important to maintain good dental hygiene in cats at a young age by either brushing, taking them to the veterinarian for a cleaning, or feeding them snacks that clean their teeth. If your elderly cat eats less, it may be due to a toothache, thus it is sometimes ideal to feed them softer foods, mostly wet, canned foods, so that chewing their dinner won't be as much of an obstacle.

Many cat owners find that their cat's coat becomes dull with age. This is due to poor nutrition. Feed your older cat a diet rich in essential fatty acids to fix this problem. When organisms, including cats, get older, they have an increased production of free radicals in the body. Free radicals contribute to the degeneration of cells in the body. Help build up the immune system of your beloved cat by increasing his or her intake of vitamin C and E.

Finally, you want your cat to remain active in old age. The more energetic activities your cat participates in the better health it will remain in. If you allow your cat to become obese it will lay around the house and have reduced quality of life, as well as a decrease in general health. Watch your pet's eating habits and assure that it is not overeating, or eating as a recreation as some cats do.

Grooming Elderly Cats

Another element of proper Elderly Cat Care is grooming. When cats age, they sometimes stop grooming themselves with the same frequency as they did when they were younger. This can create a matted fur coat that is dirty and smells bad. Bad hygiene will eventually lead to bad health. Because of this, it is important that you groom your eldery cat yourself. Purchase a good cat brush that doesn't just brush the outer coat, but one with bristles that reach down to the skin to pull up old hair.

It sometimes helps to give your cat a bath, even though most cats hate them with a passion. The best way to wash a cat is to place them in the tub and gradually introduce water. You certainly don't want to throw them into the tub with hot water running inside! You may get a deep claw mark in the arm that will never heal and remind you to never do that again. If you apply water gradually to the cat's coat until they are completely wet and then work in some shampoo quickly, you should be able to accomplish that goal.

Vet Visits and Medication

When your cat grows into old age, it may have health complications that require regular medication. You should schedule a regular vet appointment for your elderly cat to assure that you are keeping up with all details of its health regimen. In older age, cats may seem fine but still have complications. Ask your veterinarian to give your cat a blood and urine test to find out if there is anything to be concerned about to head off any future problems. Going back to dental care, most older cats develop gum disease which can lead to health problems down the line. Gum disease can be treated by your veterinarian.

Just as with a human who has to take daily medication, if your cat has been prescribed to take medications on a daily basis it is helpful to keep everything in one place as a reminder. You do not want to miss a day of any crucial medication as the system of your older cat is much more delicate than those of younger cats.

Pet Insurance

Insurance companies are coming to recognize the love that people have for their pets. Thus, there are many new pet insurance products popping up on the market. It is best to enroll your pet into an insurance program at a younger age to assure a more reasonable premium, but you may still be able to enroll your elderly cat into an insurance program where his or medical bills will be partly covered in the case of a medical emergency. Some pet insurance companies will charge anywhere from $20-$50 per month per cat, depending on their particular situation.

The costs of pet surgeries and treatments can be way out of the budget of most households, so having a pet insurance plan to back you up can be a great asset. It will also give you peace of mind about your cat as it ages.

Activities of the Elderly Cat

The activity level of elderly cats vary. Some cats become inactive and spend most of their day sleeping or sitting. But other cats can be just as active in old age as they were in their younger days. These cats may still like to play with you, run, and chase the other cats around the house, but you just need to be understanding that they may not be able to participate in these games for as long as they used to. For example, a game cats love to play is "chase their owner." Instead of letting them chase you up and down the stairs as you did when they were young, maybe you could keep the activity to one level of the house. That way you will not overexert your cat and help prolong his time spent active.

Most cat experts agree tht a cat is generally healthy and happy when they are "bright-eyed and bushy-tailed." Another indication of a healthy cat is a lustrous, shiny coat, and a tail that sticks straight up in the air when the cat is walking. Proper elderly cat care is dire if you love your senior cat and want to keep it in good physical health.

Can I Give My Dog The Flu?

2008-07-02T12:47:00.000-07:00

Everyone seems on edge about the latest outbreak of avian flu. People in China are told to kill their poultry in order to keep the virus from spreading. Meanwhile people in the United States watch on in fear that the avian flu will come to their shores. So what exactly is all the hubbub about? After all, every winter millions of people come down with bird flu.

Origin of Influenza

Influenza, the term, came into use around 1504, though it had little to do with the virus. It came from the word: influence. At the time, influence meant: “the ethereal power of the stars acting on men.” It was basically a supernatural way of explaining the effects of disease on people at the time. During a particularly nasty outbreak of the flu in Europe during 1743, the term was officially attached to the name of the disease. 96 years later, the term was shortened to just: flu.

The flu, itself, is a whole family of viruses called Orthomyxovirids. They are a diverse family that are commonly found in the guts of birds. The specific type of viruses that infect birds, are called type A flu. It was one of these type A’s that was believed to have infected people a long time ago. Thus giving us, the flu for the first time. Though the virus that initially infected man, has long since evolved into a variety of human specific strains, the initially origin appears to lay squarely among birds. As such, all human flu bugs could, technically, be called: avian flu.

Pathogens and specificity

Pathogens are viewed as being any living organism that is capable of causing a disease. It is a term that is generally reserved for bacteria, fungi and viruses. Pathogens are usually very specific in who, or what, they infect. This has a lot to do with the way in which they are constructed.

Both bacterial and viral outer structure, consist of a receptor binding proteins. These proteins give the pathogen a certain geometry. This geometry allows the pathogen to attach to complementary receptor sites on the cells of the critter that they are trying to infect. Because of the wide variety of life forms on the planet, each cell type has a different arrangement of receptors. Most of the time, the pathogen’s geometry will not fit these receptors, and the critter remains immune. Only those unlucky few species, whose cell receptors do fit, are the ones that have to suffer the infection.

Occasionally, though, a new pathogen comes along that has a geometry that is general enough to allow it to latch onto many different species. These are the pathogens that are often the more deadly.

Influenza is one of these general viruses. It is capable of infecting most bird species. It’s also very good at doing what all life forms do. It evolves. This has allowed it to cross multiple species barriers, and jump from birds, to people, to pigs, cows, and horses. Thus making influenza a very cosmopolitan virus family. This still doesn’t explain all the worry about this recent outbreak of avian flu though. For that, one must go back in time to 1918, and the Spanish flu.

It was the close of World War I, and the world appeared to be returning back to a more peaceful state. Then, in various parts of the globe, people started coming down with a particularly virulent form of the flu. This was a unique case though. Instead of the very young, and elderly dying, it was affecting young men and women instead. Usually these are the most immune to the effects of the flu. By the end of 1918, this form of the flu had killed ~50 million people. It was the largest pandemic (worldwide epidemic) in recorded history. So what happened?

Normally when one gets the flu, it is more of a hassle than anything else. This has a lot to do with the fact that the flu types we normally catch, are viruses that have infected us before. They have changed just enough so that they can infect us again, but they still remain recognizable to our immune system. As such, our bodies can keep the virus in check, and then eventually eliminate it. The 1918 flu, though, was different. It is now largely believed to have been a case where a new flu virus had hopped species. It went from birds to humans, possibly after circulating and hybridizing inside pigs (which can catch both bird and human versions of the flu). This new bug was completely alien to our immune systems and thus, took many completely by surprise.

This is what has many scared about this newest avian flu virus (dubbed: H5N1, for the specific proteins found on it). It has proven to be particularly virulent among birds, and the few cases of it infecting people have many worried that another pandemic is on the rise.

Zoonoses.

Influenza is a type of disease referred to a zoonosis. It means that it can be transmitted from one animal group, to another. Zoonotic diseases used to be further broken up into those that humans catch from other animals (anthropozoonoses) and ones that other animals catch from humans (zooanthroponoses). Unfortunately, both terms have been misused and confused so much, that neither is particularly favored anymore. Now they are all viewed as zoonotic diseases. In the end this makes the most sense, as human beings are animals anyway. To break things up any further, just seems excessive.

The flu is not the only zoonotic disease that humans get from other animals. Our primate cousins have given us quite a few different diseases including: malaria, hepatitis B, Dengue fever and lymphoma. Of course the most infamous of these zoonotic diseases would probably be HIV.

Though there are those that would like to believe that the Human Immunodeficiency Virus was a genetically engineered weapon that was released among the African populace (they give far too much credit to genetic engineers, who are proud enough to make yeast that can fluoresce), the simian origin of HIV is pretty well established. HIV has close ties to the simian version: SIV (Simian Immunodeficiency Virus). The big difference between the two, besides their first letters, is that SIV rarely kills the apes it infects. In fact, many apes are capable of carrying viral loads equivalent to those seen in humans with advanced AIDS, yet rarely show any signs of trouble. This suggests that the host and the pathogen have been doing this for a very long time, and the host’s body has found a way to handle the virus. Humans only recently acquired HIV. As such, our bodies have yet to “learn” how to deal with the threat that this virus poses. Which is one reason why HIV is so very virulent at the moment.

These are just some of the diseases that other animals have given to humans. But what of the reverse? What have we given our animal brethren?

Many of the “classic” diseases that most humans catch, are ones that we are capable of giving to our primate cousins. This includes the flu, measles, chicken pox and tuberculosis.

One particularly nasty disease that we are capable of transmitting is the infamous Foot and Mouth Disease (FMD). FMD rarely affects humans, but it does use us as a carrier for it. The disease can hang out in our nasal passages, throat, and on our clothing. It usually infects various forms of livestock (cattle, pigs, sheep, goats). Symptoms usually include fever and prominent sores on the feet and mouth (hence the name). Most infected animals do survive. Only ~5% die from the disease.

The second disease is far more pernicious, and the victims have us to blame. It is the coral disease referred to as: white pox. This disease can kill up to 10 square centimeters of coral a day (~120ft a year). Over the past decade over 90% of Caribbean reef coral (Acropora palmata), have died. The culprit behind it is the little human gut bacterium: Serratia marcescens. While humans can occasionally fall victim to this bacterium, it usually doesn’t infect us. Instead it lives in our guts and gets expelled in our feces. Improper sewage treatment has resulted in human excrement flowing out into the Caribbean, where the newly released bacterium has infected the local coral.

So remember; the next time you start to feel under the weather, don’t worry about coughing on your dog. Chances are, your canine pal probably won’t get it. Unless, of course, it is the flu.

Is A Dog Right For You?

2008-07-01T08:07:00.000-07:00

Anyone who intends to have a dog as a pet should be aware that this is an important decision. A dog will not only make changes in your family’s everyday life, it will also, at times, cause problems. A dog is a living creature that needs your presence and care on a permanent basis. In return, your dog will provide much joy as a loyal, affectionate, and faithful companion.

You must determine whether you are in a position to cater to the animals various needs for as long as it lives, which is generally from 10 to 15 years. You must also consider the other expenses involved apart from the purchase price: food, grooming, and veterinary care. Besides the expense, your life – style, your activities, and your age should influence your choice of a dog.

You must also decide what you intend the dog to be: a pet, a watch dog, a guard dog, or a hunting dog. In the country, and suburbs, adequate space is no problem. City dwellers however, are well advised to choose a medium size animal since a big dog is likely to cause damage and be unhappy in a small home. Large breeds need up to 180 square yards of space, at least an hours walk every day, and should be allowed to play freely outside one day a week.

On the other hand, even small dogs can make poor urban pets. Any type of dog that has been bred to hunt needs to run regularly. Toy dogs that bark frequently, if not nervously, do not belong in thin walled apartments buildings where footsteps in the corridor or in the upstairs unit could confuse any animal that has territorial issues.

Finally, try to match the temperament of the dog with your disposition. For instance, a nervous person with limited living space might be happy to own a dog that barks readily. An athletic person will choose a muscular animal to jog with. A fastidious housekeeper would not be happy with a long haired breed. Before you take the plunge, weigh all your options carefully, theirs nothing more heartbreaking than to have to give up a pet after you have become attached to it.

Positive Dog Training for Newbies

2008-06-28T11:36:00.000-07:00

Positive dog training was developed under the principles of Skinner's operant conditioning. While it's not a new technique, it didn't get enough popularity until the nineties.

Former students of Skinner, psychologists Keller and Marian Breland, pioneered commercial applications of operant conditioning when they created Animal Behavior Enterprises (ABE) on 1942. ABE was the first company that offered positive training services.

The huge popularity of traditional training prevented ABE to succeed in dog training. So, the Breland's company was forced to look for new niches and ABE got focused on training animals for TV shows and commercials. Keller and Marian also pioneered dolphin training for aquaria and US navy.

Positive reinforcement is the main teaching way of these techniques. Positive reinforcement is not the same as reward, though this is a common misconception.

Positive reinforcement is the process that strengthens a behavior because a pleasant situation occurs as a consequence of that particular behavior. For instance, if you give a food treat to your dog when he lies down, he will tend to lie down more frequently to get that delicious treat. Thus, your dog will be learning to lie down through positive reinforcement.

On the other hand, if your dog lies down and you reward him after 10 seconds, he may not associate the action of lying down with the reward. He may think you gave him the treat because he was looking up, or moving his ears. So, you rewarded your dog but you didn't reinforce the desired behavior.

Some people think that positive trainers never teach to the dog that a particular behavior is unacceptable. This is a common and big misinterpretation. Practitioners of positive training do teach this to dogs, but they don't use punishment or negative reinforcement for that.

Clicker training is the most popular of these techniques in many countries. It is the same technique used by Keller and Marian Breland, and was popularized by the biologist and dolphin trainer Karen Pryor.

The main difference between clicker training and other positive techniques is the use of a clicker in the former. A clicker is just a small device that emits a click-click sound when squeezed. It is used to mark the exact moment in which the dog performed a desired behavior.

The absolute absence of negative reinforcement, punishment and training collars (choke, prong or shock) make of positive dog training a very friendly technique to both dogs and owners. This could be the main advantage of this kind of training.

Other advantages are that positive dog training is easy to understand and fun to carry out. Besides, these techniques are not only focused on obedience exercises. Instead, they are widely used to solve behavioral problems.

Detractors of these techniques claim that dogs trained in a positive way won't be able to respond properly unless they can see (or scent) a food treat. These people also claim that positive trained behaviors are not reliable under variable circumstances.

Although very common, those claims are not true. The efficacy of positive training is demonstrated each day by hundreds of service dogs for disabled people, police dogs, competition dogs and performing dogs.

8 Ways to Control Dog Fleas

2008-06-27T09:40:00.000-07:00

There are numerous products that will kill adult fleas on your dog. However, they vary in the duration of their effects.

1. Flea shampoos, sprays, and powders. Most products will kill any fleas present on your dog at the time of application, but many have no lasting effect - your dog may have more fleas within 24 hours of being treated. When using a flea shampoo, always begin on the dog's head, face, and ears so the fleas won't run for shelter in those hard to reach areas. Be extra careful not to drip any solution in your pet's eyes. Applying the solution with a sponge is helpful. All shampoos should be rinsed thoroughly from the coat.

Some of the newer, more effective sprays can be a valuable part of the overall treatment plan. They kill adult fleas rapidly and are safe enough to use daily, if necessary. Flea sprays containing insect growth regulators (IGR's) are helpful in managing the overall problem because they help to break the flea life cycle. Be sure to read the label when using any of these products, because they might be recommended for once a week application, instead of daily.

Flea powders are easy to use - simply sprinkle on your dog's coat.

2. Flea rinses or dips. These may be effective for four to five days, depending on the product. The rinse is applied after the dog has been shampooed and not rinsed out and left to dry on the dog's coat. You need to dip the entire dog from nose to tail. Follow directions carefully regarding frequency throughout the flea season.

Pet shops and supermarkets sell a huge variety of flea dips and shampoos for your pet. If your dog has only a few fleas, there's no reason why you can't treat him yourself. Make sure to follow the label instructions on whatever product you buy, and pay close attention to age restrictions. Many products are not suitable for young puppies. Never use cat products on dogs.

As with flea shampoos, when using a flea dip, always begin on the dog's head, face, and ears so the fleas won't run for shelter in those hard to reach areas. Be extra careful not to drip any solution in your pet's eyes. Applying the solution with a sponge is helpful.

You might want to take your dog to the veterinarian where either an assistant or a groomer on staff will dip your pet, or take your dog to a grooming shop for flea treatment.

3. Sprays containing flea growth regulators which are called IGR's. These sprays are usually applied weekly and the growth regulators help break the flea's life cycle.

4. Flea collars. Flea collars are an easy, economical, and useful method of flea control when used before you see fleas, but aren't very effective if you already a flea problem. Flea collars are on the dog and working 24 hours per day. However, they are not very effective in climates that are especially conducive to flea reproduction. Many people don't like the smell of insecticidal flea collars or the smell and oily feeling the insecticide leaves on their hands after petting a dog wearing one. But, they are a lot better than nothing!

Many flea collars, such as the Ovitrol Plus or Ovitrol Plus II sold by veterinarians, kill adult fleas and also make flea eggs sterile. These are generally called Egg-Stopper Collars and contain insect growth regulating ingredients, which prevents egg from hatching.

Some dogs are sensitive to flea collars and develop a skin irritation under the collar, so if this happens, you should remove the collar and use another method of flea control.

In addition, there are High Tech Electronic Flea Collars for dogs that emit powerful ultrasonic pulses. They are supposed to be inaudible and harmless to pets and humans but, fleas go crazy!

Do-it-yourself Low Tech Herbal flea collar - effects last approximately one month:

Buy a soft untreated flea collar. Mix 1/2 teaspoon rubbing alcohol, essential oils of 1 drop cedar wood oil, 1 drop lavender, 1 drop citronella, 1 drop thyme oil. Open the contents of four garlic capsules into mixture. Soak flea collar until it has absorbed sufficient mixture soaked through, then let dry.

5. Spot-on products. Advantage® and Frontline® are two brand name products that are applied topically to a small area of the dog's skin and they effectively kill fleas for at least a month. They are purchased in small vials that contain one dose for various sizes of dogs. They kill adult fleas, usually before the flea has the opportunity to bite your dog.

When using some of the new residual topical treatments such as the spray and the liquid applied to the dog's neck, you may find environmental control will become much less a concern. In some cases, treating the dog with these new products will effectively control the environmental problem.

6. The pill. (Program™) This product prevents flea eggs from hatching when administered orally to pets once a month at mealtime. Dogs are fed Program in tablet form. Different tablet sizes and suspension doses are prescribed according to the animal's weight. When an adult female flea bites a Program-treated dog, the flea ingests the active ingredient (lufenuron) which then passes into her eggs and prevents them from hatching. Program is dispensed only through veterinarians. This drug does not kill the adult fleas on your dog, but it does break the flea life cycle by preventing hatching of the next generation of flea eggs. In effect, it kills the next generation of fleas.

A similar product called Sentinel contains both the flea control ingredient and heartworm medication all in one dosage.

7. Natural methods include essential herbal oils, essential fatty acids, garlic, and/or B vitamins tend to make the animal less tasty to fleas. You can supplement with garlic or brewers yeast tablets. Some animals are allergic to brewers yeast, so watch closely the first week or so to make sure the itching doesn't get worse.

8. Flea Combs. Run the comb through your pet's hair and gather a bit of hair and "flea dirt". Daily flea combing may seem like a tedious process, but you can trap some of them in the comb. Be sure to drown them in soapy water, because fleas can jump out of plain water.

3 Important Training Tips For Every Beagle Dog Owner

2008-06-25T07:11:00.000-07:00

3 Important Training Tips For Every Beagle Dog Owner

1. Be fair with corrections. Make sure your Beagle understands what you want before you correct him for not doing it. And let the punishment fit the crime. A correction should not be a release of anger, a clearing out of pent-up feelings by unloading them on the apparent cause of the problem, your Beagle. Instead, a correction is another way to communicate with your dog, to foster in him a clear understanding of his place in your human pack. As such, a proper correction is another way to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. At its mildest level, a correction is the absence of praise. Remember to always ask yourself if you're being fair before you give in to the knee-jerk reaction to leash-jerk.

2. Be positive. This tip refers to having the right attitude, of course, but it's more than that. Praise that's well timed and appropriate is essential to your Beagle's learning process. If all you ever do is tell your Beagle "no," your relationship isn't going to be a very good one. How would you like to work with a boss like that?

Praise is cheap and free - so use it, lots! Use praise when your Beagle tries to get it right. Use it more when your Beagle succeeds. Use it when your dog just pays attention to you, because that's the first step in the training. You don't have to be some gushing goof, but you do need to let your dog know when you're proud of her.

3. When training your Beagle, be on the same team. Don't think of training your dog as a you versus your dog endeavor. Think instead about the two of you being on the same team, albeit in different positions. Consider yourself the quarterback, if you like: You call the plays. Winning is a team effort. Of course, your Beagle has to learn the plays first, and you're the one to teach him. And this relationship is still not an adversarial one. You show your Beagle the things he needs to learn, and you do so with love and respect, which your dog will return in kind.

To bring your Beagle onto your team and show him the plays you'll be calling, you need to spend time with him. Bring him into your life. Let him sleep in a crate in your bedroom, practice his "sits" in the kitchen. The more opportunities for interaction and practice you have, the faster and more reliably your Beagle performs.

Your Dog's Dietary Requirements Will Vary With Age

2008-06-24T06:55:00.001-07:00

Dogs need different diets at different ages. Yes. This is true. For example, the puppy needs milk as the major food item while an adult dog may need beef or chicken in addition to the boiled egg and milk. So depending on the age factor, the diet schedule varies in reality for the dogs like any other species.

This makes perfect sense if you think about it. We as humans have different dietary requirements as we grow older as well. Aging may require the increased intake of certain nutrients and the decrease of some others. Knowing the best diet for your dogs age makes it that much easier for your dog to lead a healthy, happy life.

Puppies need greater amounts of protein, fat and carbohydrates than an adult dogs. Furthermore, puppies need more frequent feeding schedules in a day, unlike an adult dog. The movement based requirements of diet are more in the case of puppies, since they are often more active than the adult dogs.

Elder dogs need restricted protein but the protein needs to be easily digestible and easily assimilated in the body. The diet schedule should have ample supply of water for them. Feeding aged dogs too much protein may finally lead to over burden to the renal structures and ultimately, the dog may end up damaging filters in the kidney.

This is true especially when the immune system of these dogs is compromised due to many factors. Similarly, the elderly dogs need less food only because the movements of the adult dogs are highly restricted and hence, they use a limited amount of energy...a lot less energy than a puppy who's running around your house at a mile a minute.

Female dogs in the pregnancy stage need not be fed a full stomach since it may cause some discomforts to the animal. However, the pregnant animal and the nursing animal need special type of food items that deliver a balanced type of nutrition with proper supplementation of vitamins and minerals.

The nursing animal with puppies need to be fed with enough amounts of calcium and hence, there will not be any calcium based deficiency and the bones of the puppies will be strong without any curving.

To Your Dog's Good Health!

Different Ways Of Transporting Your Pet Safely

2008-06-24T06:55:00.000-07:00

There are many ways to transport your pet. Depending on the reason for the transportation, it can be a quick and easy trip for both of you, or it can be a lengthy excursion that needs detailed planning in order to work for both of you. You will want to be sure to take any necessary steps to ensure the safety and comfort of your pet during any traveling.

For making those short trips by vehicle, you have various options to choose from. Some large dogs that are typically put in the back of a truck can still be stationed there safely with a manufactured harness built especially for keeping them safe in the back box of a truck while the vehicle is in motion. For smaller animals such as smaller dogs or cats, there are seat belts that can be adapted for the inside of your vehicle in order to keep them stationary and safe.

If you have a pet that does not stay stationary during travel or might harm themselves or others around them if being secured, you may want to invest in a carrier. By using a carrier they are free to relax inside during their short venture and are still able to see what is happening around them without posing a threat in a moving vehicle. There are many styles and sizes of carriers to choose from, so you have many options when it comes to colour, design or even ease of mobility.

For those larger trips in some countries there are pet transportation services. These companies do all the necessary work in order to prepare and transport your pet safely and efficiently to their destination. This type of company can be helpful if you have never transported a pet before and are unaware of the regulations for air or train travel for a live animal. They will have completed everything for you so you can relax knowing that your pet is in good hands and will see you at your final destination.

If it is a bird that you are transporting, you would be fine to use a small cage or even a cardboard box with air holes through it, but you would need a type of harness in order to eliminate the possibility of your bird flying away in fright once it has been released at the destination. There are a variety of harnesses or suits to fit birds of all sizes for this very reason. Your pet is part of your family and you will want to protect them from any dangers on the outside.

No matter which option you choose for your type of travels you will want to make sure that you are not sedating your pet. According to veterinarians, sedation can be harmful, and sometimes even fatal, for animals during travel. Do not feel that sedating them will make their trip, or yours, any easier. A pet that is well traveled with his owner will become accustomed to it and be a great companion on the road as well as at home

Lonely Dogs and How to Handle Them

2008-06-22T10:42:00.000-07:00

Dogs belong in packs and when they are domesticated, they still look at their families as their 'packs.' They need to be social and they need attention. The way dogs have been domesticated has created a bit of a problem. Allowing your dog to spend time with other dogs is not satisfactory. They need time with their human friends. Sure, we have lives that are extremely busy, so it can be difficult to give our dogs as much attention as we need. As we rush around like maniacs trying to get important things done, trying to spend time with our dogs can feel like a burden.

When you're feeling like this, spending time with your dog sure can seem like more of a chore than having a relaxing, fun time with your four legged friend. Taking him or her for a walk can feel like a chore among a million chores that you have to accomplish. This definitely lessens the quality of the time you spend with your dog. It shouldn't be this way but sometimes it seems like life has you by the collar!

The way that we live really does affect our dogs. For instance, if we are stressed out all the time, what kind of personal time we have, our general demeanors really have a lot to do with our dogs' temperament. The dogs sometimes take on their human companions' moods and feelings - to the point that if you're depressed or stressed out all the time, your dog can be anxious and depressed as well. Also, if we are busy with certain things, walking the dog or spending time with him can be pushed to the back burner and your dog will truly suffer because of this. There are a few things that you can do to make time for your dog so that he or she is not lonely!

* Take your dog with you when you are out doing the normal daily tasks. Whether you have to go pay bills, drive your children here or there or even going out for a drive, take your dog. He or she will love going, even if she has to sit in the car. Getting out of the house and having something different to look at is a great thing for your dog to get a chance to do. If you will have other people in the car, for instance if you will be driving your kids around or picking up friends, this is a great way for your furry friend to socialize. One thing you should be sure of is to never leave your dog for more than a half an hour in the car and you should NEVER leave your dog in the car on a hot day. This could result in fatal injuries due to the heat.

* Let your pooch sleep in the bedroom with you at night. He or she doesn't have to sleep on the bed - they can have a cozy spot in the corner. Still, just the time together with you is enough to put him or her at ease. Neither one of you have to do anything but you're spending time together anyway. This is a great thing to do. If you've noticed how dogs lie together when they are puppies, you will understand that dogs have an instinct to be close to the pack during times when they are vulnerable, like sleeping. This helps them to feel secure and safe. So, for an easy way to keep your dog happy and healthy, allow them to sleep in the bedroom with you at night. * Try exploring different areas with your dog. Becoming accustomed to the same old route can also become boring. Although dogs like familiar surroundings, they also appreciate exploring new areas and seeing new things. Taking your dog through the woods or down a new path or even to the beach would be a great idea. You could even take your dog on a hike. The key is for you to enjoy the time you spend together as well because then you will want to do it more often and that will help the relationship between you and your dog!

* Spend time with your dog while you're doing other things. You can multi-task and you won't have to feel guilty that you're not spending time with your dog. For instance, while you are watching television, you can brush and groom your dog. Or, if you're ready for a relaxing nap, allow your pooch to hop up on the couch and snooze along with you (unless of course he or she is a large breed dog - then you might get pushed off onto the floor!) Doing simple things like this can be very enjoyable for your dog and doesn't take much extra effort and no extra time from you!

* Encourage the other members of your household to play with your dog and spend time with him or her. If you live alone, you could hire a dog walker a few times a week (someone that you fully trust with your pet) and allow your dog the chance to interact with others and have a good time. If the dog lives in a house with children, this is great because children usually have tons of time and energy. Make sure that your dog understands that he or she is not dominant over the children and that the dog will obey the children's commands before you allow the child to play with the dog alone. Not only will this help keep your dog happy and well-adjusted, but it takes some of the responsibility off of your shoulders as well.

While you still need to spend a good amount of time with your dog, giving him or her attention, making sure that he or she is healthy and happy, you can make your life easier in some ways using the tips and tricks above.